![]() ![]() ![]() The advantage of wiggle wood is you can put the screw at the top of the wave on the corrugation which will reduce leaks. We had a hailstorm and the roof leaked a lot. Penny, We bought a house about 4 years ago that was built 40 years ago and has a flat metal roof. Their picture is terrible so this is a picture from Home Depot : Is it very uncommon to use a 38×114 SAP as purlins for a metal sheet roofing. I am using 2'x12' galvanized metal corrugated roofing panels from Home Depot. I priced materials and I am going with a combination from Lowes and Home Depot. I put the joists 4' OC with perpendicular blocking spaced 2' OC. We burned about 3 1/2 last year (first year in house) so I'll have 2 years stored with a little margin. If I stack 6' high I'll have 9 cords under cover. My shed will have a covered area that is 24'x8' with a 2' overhang for a 28'x12' roof. If this ever happen under a woodshed it wouldn't be a big deal. Under the right moist and cool weather conditions I have seen water condensate on the bottom of bare metal roofing and watched it rain under the roof as it warmed up and the sun hit the metal roof. Ill have to figure that one out when I buy my roofing panels. A panel of 24 gauge steel will accommodate a much greater purlijn spacing than a panel of 29 gauge steel. ,ĮDIT For anything but a woodshed I would still put felt paper or some membrane on the strapping directly under the metal. is adequate, but that really depends on the strength properties of the roof panel. It makes it a lot easier to put the screws in once you get the sheets up on the roof. Already having the rise will make it easy to determine the rafter length by loading the numbers into the equation chart. Just make sure the metal roofing is all stacked exactly on top of each other figure out exactly where the screw holes need to be to line up with the strapping and drill the holes through all the sheets at once. ![]() One trick you can use for helping the metal roofing go on way faster and easier is to pre-drill the screw holes while the metal roofing is still in a stack. Trusses and rafters fixed to the top plate must be brought up to the Building Code requirements 4.7kN capacity. You'll save some $$$ using 1x4s over 2x4s. The wind load will, in some cases, determine the spacing and fixings required but if it is assumed that truss or rafter centres are at 900mm and that the wind design load is medium 37m/s 1.23 kPa (kl 1.5) then. I can't see any advantage to using 2x4s for strapping unless your rafters are further apart then 24". For metal roofing rafters 24" on center with 1x4 strapping (purlins) is pretty standard around here, with the strapping 16" on center. ![]()
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